Geek of the Week
Inspired by Surf
Michael Enos Media Studies ’18 has never met a wave he didn’t like.
What makes you a geek?
Each morning when I wake up, the first thing I think about is how I can fit surfing into my life today.
Where’s your favorite place to surf?
Fort Point, right beneath the Golden Gate Bridge. It’s beautiful. You can see downtown and Alcatraz. Tourists watch from the shore. It’s known to be sharky out there, but I haven’t seen a shark yet. Just seals and sea lions.
Best wave yet?
Last March, at Linda Mar in Pacifica, at the end of the big winter swells, I dropped in on a wave about six feet high. It’s a steep drop and I have to make a quick turn, and just after I turn I see the lip of the curl go over my head. I’m inside the wave. Then the wave collapses on me. Afterwards, another surfer paddles up to me and yells, “I saw you in the tube. That was awesome!”
So has surfing changed your life?
Absolutely. It’s affected everything. How I organize my room to store my surfboards. The minimum gallons of gas I keep in my car. The friends I’ve made. In my work as a freelance cinematographer and editor, I try to add ocean footage to videos whenever the ocean is even halfway appropriate for the project.
How can surfing change the world?
Surfing can’t change the world, but surfers can. Every surfer is spiritually engaged with other surfers and with the ocean. Surfers look at the environment in a concrete way: When you see a “Keep Out” sign on the beach and you can’t surf for 24 hours because there’s sewage in the water, that makes you want to clean up the ocean. If you clean the ocean, you go a long way toward saving the Earth.
Does your passion change the world in a way small or large? Nominate yourself or a friend for Geek of the Week! Email email@example.com